KATHMANDU: Perched atop the towering hills of Taplejung in eastern Nepal, Pathivara Temple remains one of the country’s most significant religious sites. Despite its remote location and challenging terrain, thousands of pilgrims undertake the arduous journey each year to seek the blessings of the goddess Pathivara Devi. Revered as a powerful manifestation of Goddess Durga, the deity is believed to grant the wishes of her devotees, attracting worshippers not only from Nepal but also from neighboring India.
Pathivara Mata Temple awaits those seeking divine blessings and breathtaking landscapes. It is revered as the “Goddess of Desires,” where devotees believe their wishes are fulfilled through prayer and offerings.
A Sacred Summit
At an elevation of 3,794 meters (12,444 feet) above sea level, Pathivara Temple sits dramatically on a high hillock, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding Himalayas. The temple is located approximately 19.5 kilometers northeast of Phungling, the district headquarters of Taplejung, and can be reached after a one-day trek from the town’s bustling market. For centuries, this pilgrimage site has served as a focal point of devotion for Hindus and Buddhists alike, with local Limbu communities recognizing it by its traditional name, Mukumlung. In their language, ‘mukum’ means strength or force, and ‘lung’ signifies a sacred stone or site—suggesting that the temple represents a potent source of divine power.
The Path of Pilgrimage
Despite its difficult accessibility, the allure of Pathivara remains undiminished. The journey to the temple is a test of endurance and faith, as devotees navigate steep, rugged trails through dense forests of rhododendrons, oak, and pine. Yet, the pilgrimage is not solely an act of devotion; the route itself is an experience of natural splendor, with breathtaking vistas of snow-capped peaks, including glimpses of the Kanchenjunga range.
Interestingly, the temple also serves as an alternative trekking route to Kanchenjunga Base Camp, one of Nepal’s most renowned trekking destinations. As a result, adventure seekers often combine their spiritual quest with a thrilling Himalayan expedition.
The Goddess and Her Legends
Pathivara Devi, also known as Chandi, Kali, Maha Maya, and Maha Rudri, is believed to be a powerful and responsive goddess. Her origins are deeply woven into local folklore. According to legend, shepherds once lost their entire herd in the area where the temple now stands. In a vision, the goddess appeared to them, instructing them to offer ritualistic sacrifices in her honor. Upon fulfilling this request, the lost sheep miraculously reappeared, cementing the site’s reputation as a place of divine intervention. Ever since, devotees have offered gold, silver, and animal sacrifices—practices that continue to this day, attracting even Nepal’s former royal family to the shrine.
A Meeting Point of Faiths
Although predominantly a Hindu site, Pathivara holds immense significance for the indigenous Limbu community, whose spiritual beliefs are deeply tied to the sacred geography of the region. The temple is considered one of the most important Shakti Peeths in Nepal—sites dedicated to the worship of the goddess Shakti, the primordial cosmic energy.
The temple’s influence also extends beyond Hinduism. For many Buddhists in Nepal, particularly in the eastern region, the site is an integral part of their spiritual landscape. The intermingling of religious traditions is a testament to Nepal’s rich cultural and spiritual diversity.
A Spiritual and Natural Haven
Pathivara Mata Temple is more than just a religious sanctuary; it is a gateway to nature’s magnificence. The temple sits at an unparalleled vantage point, offering panoramic views of the mighty Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak. Pilgrims and travelers alike are drawn not only to the spiritual aura but also to the region’s pristine beauty. From the cascading Sawa waterfall to the serene Timbung Pond, the landscape around Pathivara bursts into a vibrant display of colors during autumn and spring.
The trekking trails leading to the temple are equally mesmerizing, teeming with rich biodiversity. The forests, a vital part of the ecosystem, are home to diverse wildlife, chirping birds, and fluttering butterflies. Each step along the trail reveals new wonders, from exotic flowers blooming along the paths to the sweeping views of verdant hills and snowy peaks.
The Sacred Offerings and the Temple’s Copper Gate
As thousands of devotees arrive each year, they bring with them offerings—holy tridents, mud lamps, and copper pots filled with coins—to express their devotion. Over time, the temple’s warehouse brimmed with these sacred items, leaving the management committee with a dilemma: what to do with the overflowing offerings?
Rather than discarding them or selling them, an ingenious decision was made—to recycle the copper and forge a grand entrance gate. This decision not only solved the storage issue but also imbued the entrance with deep spiritual significance. The committee enlisted the expertise of Rajendra Shilpakar, a skilled sculptor from Patan, who took on the project as a personal offering to the goddess. For him, it was an opportunity to blend faith with artistry, creating a masterpiece that would welcome generations of pilgrims.
A Temple Open to All
Unlike many religious sites that impose restrictions based on caste or creed, Pathivara Mata Temple stands as a symbol of inclusivity. Here, all are welcome, regardless of background. While discrimination persists in many rural areas, this temple remains a place of unity and equality, drawing visitors not just from Nepal but also from neighboring India and beyond.
Statistics reveal the temple’s growing significance as a pilgrimage destination. In April alone, over 12,933 devotees visited in a single day, with annual offerings exceeding Rs. 10 million. These contributions are reinvested into local development projects, ensuring that the temple’s prosperity benefits the surrounding community.
Legends and the Origin of Pathivara
The temple’s origins are steeped in legend. Long ago, shepherds from the region would bring their flocks to graze in the dense forests of what is now Pathivara. One fateful day, an entire herd vanished without a trace. The desperate shepherds searched tirelessly but to no avail. That night, a divine presence visited one of them in a dream, revealing herself as the goddess and instructing him to offer a sacrifice in her honor. The shepherd complied, and to his astonishment, not only did the lost sheep return, but they multiplied miraculously.
Since then, the tradition of offering sacrifices—primarily goats—has continued as a means of appeasing the goddess. Pilgrims also present pots filled with coins as an expression of their devotion. Interestingly, despite the countless sacrifices over the centuries, no blood ever collects at the temple grounds—a phenomenon devotees believe is the goddess herself accepting the offerings.
Journey to Pathivara: How to Get There
Reaching Pathivara Mata Temple requires a combination of air, road, and trekking routes:
* By Air: The nearest airport is Suketar, about a 30-minute drive from the temple. Travelers can take a direct flight from Kathmandu to Biratnagar and then a connecting flight to Suketar.
* By Road: The temple is accessible by road via Birtamod, the eastern hub of Nepal. From there, visitors can take a local bus or jeep to Taplejung Bazar, followed by a drive or trek to the temple.
* By Trekking: For adventure seekers, a trek from Suketar or Taplejung Bazar offers a rewarding experience, taking 4–7 hours depending on the route. The path is challenging but grants stunning Himalayan views, making the journey as memorable as the destination itself.
The Challenges and the Future
While the sanctity of Pathivara Temple remains intact, the increasing footfall of pilgrims and trekkers has raised concerns about environmental sustainability. Efforts are being made to improve accessibility through better trails, controlled tourism policies, and conservation initiatives to preserve the region’s fragile ecosystem. The government and local communities are working together to strike a balance between religious reverence and responsible tourism.
As Nepal continues to embrace modernity, Pathivara Temple stands as a powerful reminder of the country’s deep-rooted spiritual traditions. Whether one seeks divine blessings, cultural insight, or a journey through Nepal’s pristine landscapes, Pathivara remains a destination like no other—a sacred sanctuary in the clouds where faith and nature converge.
