Sarah Burton brought the house of Alexander McQueen to town for the first time in 23 years with a runway show staged Tuesday night amid huge piles of wood chips arranged in a barren Brooklyn warehouse.

Mycelium, the buzzy mushroom alternative to leather, was on Burton’s mind as a theme, and sewn or woven into some of her autumn-winter looks. But none of it was used to make the clothes. The successor to Lee Alexander McQueen told journalists after the show that she’s still experimenting with sustainable mushroom leather and other alternatives, sticking to the real thing for now.