In South Africa, a lighter, brighter chicken curry

April 25, 2022
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In the riot of colors and smells that is Cape Town, South Africa, we found a vibrant one-pot chicken and vegetable dish that turned our idea of what a curry is on its head. From a distance, this Cape Malay curry reads Indian, or maybe Indonesian, but get closer and it distinguishes itself as uniquely South African.

Vivid, distinct flavors permeate rather than coat the potatoes and tender bites of chicken, and the dish lacks the heft of Indian curries. Refreshingly so.

Our teacher, Faldela Tolker, noted that similar ingredients are used differently. Spices, for instance, aren’t ground but are dropped whole into the broth and are often discarded just before serving. The result is a lighter, brighter, milder curry than those most of us are familiar with, yet one still alluringly aromatic.

In this recipe from our book “Milk Street Tuesday Nights,” we build the flavor base of our Cape Malay curry on lightly browned onions. We also use whole fennel and cumin seeds, allowing them to add both texture and flavor. Using boneless, skinless chicken thighs keeps the meat moist and adds richness.