French climber Alasdair McKenzie, alongside a team of veteran Nepalese Sherpas, has made history by achieving the summit of Cho Oyu on 7 June, 2024, via the formidable Nepal side.
Alasdair McKenzie, partnering in his climb with Gelje, Tenging Gyaljen and other Sherpas, stood atop the world's sixth-highest mountain at a height of 8,188 meters above sea level at 8:35 PM (Nepal Time) via the S-SW Ridge (SST-Nepal Route), said Mingma Sherpa, who is handling the entire expedition movement from the basecamp of Cho Oyu.
“McKenzie, Tenging Gyaljen, Gelje and some others Sherpas reached the summit. The team started at 2 AM (approx.) from Camp IV, and after a continuous effort of over 17 hours, they made it to the top” – Mingma Sherpa, Chairman of SST added. This remarkable achievement was the result of a meticulously planned expedition that started in March and commenced in the first week of May from Lukla.
Despite being summited for the first time in 1954 by Dr. Herbert Tichy, Sepp Joechler, and Pasang Dawa Sherpa, the standard climbing route lies in Tibet. Cho Oyu's Nepal side is known for its steep, vertical walls rising thousands of meters, making it one of the greatest present time challenges. The face of the mountain from the Nepal side had not witnessed a successful climb since 2009 (by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko – Route: South Face), despite numerous attempts, highlighting the difficulty involved.
The expedition faced numerous challenges along the way. By May 30, McKenzie and the Sherpa team, including Mingteamba Sherpa, had fixed ropes up to 7625m but were forced to return to the base camp due to a shortage of ropes. On June 4, with all preparations in place, the team set off on their final summit push from the base camp.
The successful summit has accomplished by our victorious team:
• Alasdair McKenzie (France) – Completed his 13th 8000er.
• Gelje Sherpa (Nepal) – Leading the Fixing Team
• Chhangba Sherpa (Nepal)
• Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa (Nepal) – Leading the Fixing Team
• Lakpa Temba Sherpa (Nepal)
• Lakpa Tenji Sherpa (Nepal)
• Ngima Ongda Sherpa (Nepal)
The team's dedication and hard work, along with the exceptional logistics and management provided by Seven Summit Treks were crucial in overcoming the formidable challenges posed by Cho Oyu’s Nepal side. The Sherpas, the team members, the leader, and the climbing strategy deserve commendable praise for this achievement.
Expedition ground handling and leadership by Mingma Sherpa
This expedition was also executed under the careful preparation and supervision of Mingma Sherpa, Chairman of SST, which is a phenomenal factor that led to this historic achievement mountaineering achievement and logistical expertise, drawing from a wealth of experience in arranging successful ascents on the world's highest peaks. As the first South Asian to climb all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters, Mingma's unparalleled mastery of high-altitude logistics, climbing strategy, and profound understanding of mountains is second to none.
A New Era in Nepali Mountaineering
This historic ascent not only marks a significant milestone in the mountaineering world but also opens up new opportunities for climbers from Nepal as well as around the globe aspiring to climb from the Nepalese side. With this success, Cho Oyu is now more accessible from Nepal, heralding a new era in the Nepali mountaineering, and inspiring future expeditions to tackle its challenging routes.
Seven Summit Treks, the organiser of this expedition, takes immense pride in this achievement, and extends gratitude to all the climbers, past and present, who have contributed to this historic moment.
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